THE INCREASING PHENOMENON OF SECOND-HAND CLOTHES PURCHASE: INSIGHTS FROM THE LITERATURE

Halimin Herjanto, Jean Scheller-Sampson, Elisabeth Erickson




Abstract


The global trend of second-hand clothing (SHC) consumption is significantly increasing and unstoppable. This trend has made, and will continue to make, a huge impact in the clothing industry in virtually every part of the world. However, the number of studies on SHC are still limited and more importantly, the findings are mixed and inconclusive. This study investigates the trend in SHC research between 1990 and 2014. 131 published academic articles from different disciplines were collected and content analyzed and the results indicate that SHC research was highly focused on the topics of consumption behavior, textile disposal behavior, and SHC trading related issues. In addition, the results also show that SHC research was mainly conducted from the consumers’ point of view. With the increasing interest in SHC, this study attempts to develop a better understanding of SHC phenomena and provide clear future research directions to scholars in designing SHC related research.


Keywords


Second-hand consumption, consumption behavior, disposal behavior, content analysis.

References


Abimola, O. (2012). The international trade in second hand clothing: Managing information asymmetry between West African and British traders. Textile, 10(2), 184–199.

Ajzen, I. & Fishbein, M. (1980). Understanding attitudes and predicting social behavior. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall.

Albinsson, P. A. & Perera, Y. (2009). From trash to treasure and beyond: The meaning of voluntary disposition. Journal of Consumer Behavior, 8, 340-353.

Ansori, M. H. (2009). Consumerism and the emergence of a new middle class in globalizing Indonesia. Explorations: A Graduate Student Journal of Southeast Asian Studies, 9(Spring), 87–97.

Apatoff, A. (2014). Shailene woodley: I only wear used clothes unless it’s for work. Available at http://stylenews.peoplestylewatch.com/2014/03/05/shailene-woodley-divergent-used-clothes-red -carpet/.

Armitage, C. J. & Conner, M. (2001). Efficacy of the theory of planned behavior: A meta analytic review. British Journal of Social Psychology, 40, 471–499.

Baden, S. & Barber, C. (2005). The impact of the second-hand clothing trade on developing countries. GB: Oxfam.

Barahona, V. L. & Sanchez, J. N. (2012). Dressing the poor: The provision of clothing among the lower classes in eighteen century Madrid. Textile History, 43(1), 23–42.

Baumeister, R. F., Stillwell, A. M., & Heatherton, T. F. (1994). Guilt: An interpersonal approach. Psychological Bulletin, 115(2), 243–267.

Beard, N. D. (2008). The branding of ethical fashion and the consumer: A luxury niche or mass market reality? Fashion Theory, 12(4), 447–468.

Benson, S. P. (2007). What goes round comes round: Second hand clothing, furniture, and tools in working class lives in the interwar United States. Journal of Women’s History, 9(1), 17–31.

Besnier, N. (2004). Consumption and cosmopolita-nism: Practicing, modernity at the second hand marketplace in Nuku’alofa, Tonga. Anthropolo-gical Quarterly, 77(1), 7–45.

Bianchi, C. & Birtwistle, G. (2010) Sell, give away, or donate: An exploratory study of fashion clothing disposal behaviour in two countries. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 20(3), 353–368.

-------------------- (2012). Consumer clothing disposal behaviour: A comparative study. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 36, 325–341.

Birtwistle, G. & Moore, C. M. (2007). Fashion clothing – where does it all end up? International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 35(3), 210–216.

Blank, M. J. (2015). Young people must know their own history. Available at http://www.huffing-tonpost.com/martin-j-blank/young-people-must-know-th_b_6489738.html.

Blomgren, H., Sattari, S., Peighambari, K., & Levihn, F. (2014). The strategy agenda of corporate Europe: Sustainability or not? In The Sustainable Global Marketplace. Berlin: Springer International Publishing, pp. 307–309.

Braze-Govan, J. & Binay, I. (2010). Consumption of disposed goods for moral identities: A nexus of organization, place, things and consumers. Journal of Consumer Behavior, 9, 69–82.

Brooks, A. (2012). Riches from rags or persistent poverty? The working lives of second hand clothing vendors in Maputo, Mozambique. Textile, 10(2), 22–237.

Brooks, A. & Simon, D. (2012). Unravelling the relationships between used-clothing imports and the decline of African clothing industries. Development and Change, 43(6), 1265–1290.

Brookshire, J.E.H. & Hodges, N. N. (2009). Socially responsible consumer behavior? Exploring used clothing donation behavior. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 27(3), 179–196.

Business 2 Community (2015). 30 Shocking figures and facts in global textile and apparel industry. Available at http://www.business2community. com/fashion-beauty/30-shocking-figures-facts-global-textile-apparel-industry-01222057.

Carvellon, M.C., Carey, L., & Harms, T. (2013). Something old, something used: Deter-minants of women’s purchase of vintage fashion vs second hand fashion. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 40(12), 956–974.

Castillo, R.A. (2014). Second hand clothing commerce and the mobility cultural configuration: A journey to manhood crossings. Journal of Migration & Culture, 5(2/3), 303–316.

Charbonneau, J. S. (2008). Social responsibility and women’s acquisition of second hand clothing (Unpublished Doctoral Dissertation) Colorado State University, Colorado, USA.

Charpy, M. (2008). The scope and structure of the nineteenth century second hand trade in the Parisian clothes market. In. L. Fontaine (Ed.). Alter-native exchanges: Second hand circulations from the sixteenth century to the present. USA: Berghahn Books.

Clammer, J. (1992). Aesthetics of the self: Shopping and social being in modern urban Japan. In R. Shields (Ed.). Lifestyle shopping: The subject of consumption. London: Routledge, pp. 197–217.

De Klerk, H. M. & Tselepis, T. (2007). The early – adolescent female clothing consumer: Expec-tations, evaluation and satisfaction with fit as part of the appreciation of clothing quality. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An Inter-national Journal, 11(3), 413–428.

Domina, T. & Koch, K. (2001). Textile recycling, convenience and the older adult. Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, 93(5), 35–40.

Ekstrom, K. M. & Salomonson, N. (2014). Reuse and recycling of clothing and textiles – a network approach. Journal of Macromarketing, April, 1–17

Farrant, L., Olsen, S. I., & Wangel, A. (2011). Environ-mental benefits from reusing clothes. International Journal of Life Cycle Assess, 15, 726–736.

Felix, A. T., Asuamah, S. Y., & Darkwa, B. (2013). Are demographic variables determinants of recycling behaviour in Ghana? International Journal of Innovative Research & Development, 2(7), 381–387.

Fortenbaugh, W. W. (1969). Aristotle: Emotion and moral virtue. Arethusa, 2(2), 163–185.

Fuster, H., Iberst, U., Griffiths, M., Carbonell, X., Chamarro, A., & Talarn, A. (2012). Psychological motivation in online role playing games: A study of Spanish world of warcraft players. Anales de Psicologia, 28(1), 274–280.

Gaur, S., Herjanto, H., & Makkar, M. (2014). Review of emotions research in marketing, 2002-2013. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Service 21, 917–923.

Ginsburg, M. (1980). Rags to riches: The second-hand clothes trade 1700–1978. Costume, 14(1), 121–135.

Grasso, M. M., McEnally, M., Widdows, R., & Herr, D. G. (2000). Consumer behavior toward recycled textile products. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 91(2), 94–106.

Guiot D. & Roux, D. (2008). Measuring second hand shopping motives, antecedents and consequences. Recherche et Applications en Marketing, 23(4), 63–94.

----------------- (2010). A Second hand shoppers’ motivation scale: Antecedents, consequences, and implications for retailers. Journal of Re-tailing, 86(4), 355–371.

Gunnells, K., Hale, J. E., & Hale, D. P. (2009). Revisiting knowledge, skills and abilities needed for development and delivery project staff. SAIS 2006 Proceedings. Paper 38.

Ha-Brookshire, J. E. H. & Hodges, N. N. (2009). Socially responsible consumer behavior? Exploring used clothing donation behavior. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 27(3), 179–196.

Haggblade, S. (1990). The flip side of fashion: Used clothing exports to the third world. The Journal of Development Studies, 26(3), 505–521.

Han, J. (2013). Understanding second-hand retailing: A resource based perspective of best practices leading to business success (unpublished doctoral thesis). Iowa State University, USA.

Hansen, K. T. (1999). Second hand clothing encounters in Zambia: Global discourses, western commodities and local history. Journal of the International Africa Institute, 69(3), 343–365.

------------------ (2000). Other people’s clothes? The international second-hand clothing trade and dress practices in Zambia. Fashion Theory, 4(3), 245–274.

------------------ (2004). Helping or hindering? Contro-versies around the international second hand clothing trade. Anthropology Today, 20(4), 3–9.

Hibbert, S. A., Horne, S., & Tagg, S. (2005). Charity retailers in competition for merchandise: Examining how consumers dispose of used goods. Journal of Business Research, 58, 819–828.

Holsti, O. R. (1969). Content analysis for the social science and humanities. Reading, MA: Addison-Wesley.

Hossain, S. (2005). Poverty, hosehold strategies and coping with urban life: Examining “livelihood framework” in Dhaka City, Bangladesh. Bangladesh e-Journal of Sociology, 2(1), 45–52.

Hoyer, W.D., MacInnis, D. J., & Pieters, R. (2013). Consumer behavior (6th ed.), USA: South-Wes-tern Cengage Learning.

Huck, C. (2003). Clothes make the Irish: Irish dressing and the question of identity. Irish Studies Review, 11(3), 273–284.

Huffpost (2013). Woman vows to wear only second hand clothes for one year. Available at http:// www.Huffingtonpost.ca/2013/09/03/woman-wear s-secondhand-clothes-one-year_n_3861782.html

Isla, V. L. (2013). Investigating second-hand fashion trade and consumption in the Philippines: Expanding existing discourses. Journal of Consumer Culture, 13(3), 221–240.

Jagel, T., Keeling, K., Reppel, A., & Gruber, T. (2012). Individual values and motivational complexities in ethical clothing consumption: A means-end approach. Journal of Marketing Management, 28(3/4), 373–396.

Joung, H. M. (2013). Materialism and clothing post-purchase behavior. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 30(6), 530–537.

Joung, H. M. & Poaps, H. P. (2013). Factors motivating and influencing clothing disposal behavior. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37, 105–111.

Jucso, P. (2008). Google scholar revisited. Online Information Review, 32(1), 102–114.

Kang, J.Y.M., Kim, K.P. J., & Kim, J. (2013). Clothing functions and use of clothing to alter mood. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 6(1), 43–52.

Kressmann, F. Sirgy, J. M., Herrmann, A., Huber, F., Huber, S., & Lee, D. J. (2006). Direct and indirect effects of self-image congruence on brand loyalty. Journal of Business Research, 59, 955–964.

Kupers, W. & Weibler, J. (2008). Interleadership: Why and how should we think of leadership and followership integrally? Leadership, 4(4), 443–475.

Lambert, M. (2004). Cast off wearing apparel: The consumption and distribution of second hand clothing in Northern England during the long eighteen century. Costume, 35(1), 1–26.

---------------- (2014). Death and memory: Clothing bequests in English Wills 1650–1830. Costume, 48(1), 46–59.

Lastovicka, J. & Fernandez, F. V. (2005). Three paths to disposition: The movement of meaningful possessions to strangers. Journal of Consumer Research, 31 (March), 813–823.

Lazarus, R. S. (1991). Cognition and motivation in emotion. American Psychologist, 46(4), 352–367.

Lemire, B. (2006). The second hand clothing trade in Europe and beyond: Stages of development and enterprise in a changing material world, c1600–1850. Textile, 10(2), 144–163.

Linacre, S. (2013). Writing for publication. Auckland Institute of Technology. (11–12 February 2013).

Lu, S. (2015). Global trade of used clothing. Available at: https://shenglufashion.wordpress. com/2015/09/30/ global-trade-of-used-clothing/.

McColl, J., Canning, C., McBridge, L., Nobbs, K., & Shearer, L. (2013). It’s vintage darling! An exploration of vintage fashion retailing. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 104(2), 140–150.

Mhango, M. W. & Niehm, L. S. (2005). The second hand clothing distribution channel. Opportunities for retail entrepreneurs in Malawi. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 9(3), 342–356.

Milgram, L. B. (2012). Reconfiguring margins: Second hand clothing and street vending in the Philippines. Textile, 19(2), 200–221.

Mintel (2009). Ethical clothing- UK 2009. London: Mintel.

Moon, J. W. & Kim, Y. G. (2001). Extending the TAM for a world wide web context. Information & Management, 38, 217–230.

Na’amneh, N. M. & Al Huban, A. K. (2012). Identity in old clothes: The sociocultural dynamics of second-hand clothing in Irbid, Jordan. Social Identities, 18(5), 609–621.

Noon, D. J. (2011). Changing patterns of consumerism: The rise and rise of the second hand. (Unpublished master’s thesis). Massey University, New Zealand.

Noruzi, A. (2005). Google scholar: The new generation of citation indexes. Libri, 55, 170–180.

Ohno, T. (2011). Creating a used clothing recycling system in Japan. Available at: http://www. japanfs.org/en/news/archives/news_id030982. html.

Parsons, L. (1999). New goods, old records and second-hand suits: Charity shopping in South-West England. International Journal of Non-profits and Voluntary Sector Marketing, 5(2), 141–151.

Pohja, T. L. (2010). Searching for a definition of social norms: An analysis of 690 journal articles. Paper was presented at ICSB World Conference Proceedings: 1–17 Washington.

Quayson, A. (2010). Signs of the times: Discourse ecologies and street life on Oxford St., Accra. City& Society, 22(1), 72–96.

Rahman, O., Jian, Y., & Liu, W. S. (2010). Evaluative criteria of denim jeans: A cross national study of functional and aesthetic aspects. The Design Journal, 13(3), 291–311.

Rothstein, F. A. (2005). Challenging consumption theory: Production and consumption in Central Mexico. Critique of Anthropology, 25(3), 279–306.

Roux, D. & Guiot, D. (2008). Measuring second hand shopping motives, antecedents and consequences. Recherche et Applications en Marketing, 23(4), 63–94.

Rucker, M., McGee, K., Alves, B., Hopkins, M., Sypolt, T., & Watada, M. (1995). Factors influencing consumer initiation of second hand markets. European Advances in Consumer Research, 2, 425–429.

Saraswat, V. & Bhadauria, V.P.S. (2009). Intellectual property & human environment: Towards a sustainable future. Conference: Recent Advances in Environmental Protection at Agra.

Schwarz, S. H. (1992). Universals in the content and structure of values: Theoretical advances and empirical tests in 20 countries. In M. Zanna (Ed.), Advances in Experimental Social Psychology, 25, pp. 1–65. New York: Academic Press.

Sedikides, C., Wildschut, T., & Baden, D. (2004). Nostalgia: Conceptual issues and existential functions. In J. Greenberg, S. Koole and T. Pyszczynski. (eds.). Handbook of Experimental Existential Psychology (pp. 200–214). New York, NY: Guilford Press.

Shim, S. (1995). Environmentalism and consumers’ clothing disposal patterns: An exploratory study. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 13(1), 38–48.

Slotterback, J. N. (2007). Threadbare: The used clothing trade and its effects on the textile industries in Nigeria and Other Sub-Saharan African Nations. Available at http://www. docstoc.com/docs/89480354/ threadbare-the-used-clothing-trade-and-itseffects-on-the-textile.

Smirchich, L. (1983). Concepts of culture and organizational analysis. Administrative Science Quarterly, 28(3), 339–358.

Smitha, F. E. (2015). Plague and progress I the 1300s – macro history and world timeline. Available at http://www .fsmitha.com/h3/h14eu1.htm.

Sontag, M. S. & Lee, J. (2004). Proximity of clothing to self-scale. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 22(4), 161–177.

Srinivasan, S. R. & Sivakumar, S. N. V. (2011). Strategies for retailers during recession. Journal of Business and Retail Management Research, 5(2), 94–104.

Stearns, P. N. (2013). Why study history Available at https://www.historians.org/about-aha-and-mem-bership/aha-history-and-archives/archives/why-study-history-(1998).

Steinbring, Y. & Rucker, M. (2003). Utilizatinon of post-consumer textiles and clothing. Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, 95(2), 33–37.

Van Birgelen, M., Semeijn, J., & Keicher, M. (2009). Packaging and proenvironmental consumption behavior. Environmental and Behavior, 41(1), 125–146.

Van Damme, I. & Vermoesen, R. (2009). Second hand consumption as a way of life: Public auctions in the surroundings of alost in the late eighteen century. Continuity and Change, 24, 275–305.

Van Ness, N. & Cramer, J. (2005). Influencing product lifetime through product design. Business Strategy and the Environment, 14, 286–299.

Walter, E. E. (2008). Textile recycling attitudes and behaviors among college students (unpublished master’s thesis). Eastern Illinois University, USA.

Ward, J. (2011). Political consumerism as political participations? In K. Brants & K. Voltmer (eds). Political communication in postmodern democracy: Challenging the primacy of politics. Hampshire, UK: Palgrave MacMillan.

Winakor, G. (1969). The Process of clothing consumption. Journal of Home Economics, 61, 629–634.

Wright, J. (2014). The industries and countries still in the recession’s grip. Forbes. Available at http://www.forbes.com/sites/emsi/2013/09/13/ for-metros-with-flourishing-economies-tech-sector-at-center-of-job-growth/

Xu, Y., Chen, Y., Burman, R., & Zhao, H. (2014). Second hand clothing consumption: A cross cultural comparison between American and Chinese young consumers. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 670–677.

Zauberman, G., Ratner, R. K., & Kim, B. K. (2009). Memories as assets: Strategic memory protecttion in choice over time. Journal of Consumer Research, 35(Feb), 715–728.


Full Text: PDF

The Journal is published by Faculty of Economics, Department of Management - Petra Christian University. It available online supported by Directorate General of Higher Education - Ministry of National Education - Republic of Indonesia.

©All right reserved 2016.Jurnal Manajemen dan Kewirausahaan, ISSN: 1411-1438, e-ISSN: 2338-8234

web stats
View My Stats




Copyright © Research Center Web-Dev Team